Inside ArtEz: Sanne Schepers on her first year as head of department

Sanne Schepers has fond memories of the ArtEZ University of the Arts in Arnhem, the Netherlands. These memories made her think long and hard before applying for the head of department position. "Do I dare take on a new role? Am I going to take that step to bring about a change in my relationship with the department?" she explains. Now, with her first academic year nearly complete, the graduation show for the new class is just around the corner. FashionUnited meets her in Arnhem.

Even before the interview begins, Schepers gives a tour of the ArtEZ fashion department. “We emphasise craftsmanship and a complete understanding of the garment-making process.” We walk into an illustration class and also a class on fabric design. “You can already see a lot of personality in the students' work in every year of study.” For instance, one table is covered in black and white, while another features a combination of pink, orange and blue. “You can see which bubble they are in even in the first year,” Schepers smiles.

The new graduating class at ArtEZ is no stranger to the new head of department. She has been teaching at the academy for several years, so she has had this class in their first, second, third and fourth years of study. “It's as if it was meant to be that this is my first graduating class." In the studio, the students, or perhaps we should say designers, are hard at work. Focused, they each sit at their own workstation. Here too, each designer's individual style is clearly visible. While one works more in black and white, another is very colourful, but there is an overarching theme. “This class is very focused on tactility.” This is a development that can also be seen in the global fashion industry.

Although the graduation show is certainly a peak moment that the students and the academy work towards, it is not over after that. “There are a few more weeks of classes afterwards, and for the graduates, it's time to take the step into the industry.”

With the academic year coming to a close, it is also time for a little reflection. How can the first year be summarised? “Versatile,” says Schepers after a moment of thought. “I have so many new tasks. Whereas I used to be at the forefront as a teacher in the classroom with my hands in the clay, I now also see the back end and business operations. I am much more involved in the layers of the institution and also where the fashion department stands internationally. I get to be more involved in that now, and I really enjoy it. Where do we want to go and what is needed to get there?”

From rowing boat to oil tanker

Before starting her role as head of department, Schepers thought long and hard. She knew that managing her own brand, Schepers Bosman, would be very different from managing a fashion department. “I come from a small design company where we run everything ourselves. If we make a decision, the email is sent tomorrow and everything is set in motion. Now I am in a large organisation with many more departments. That also means more support, but it is an oil tanker and I was in a rowing boat before. I had expected this and I take it into account, but it is still new to me.”

She was also aware that she would be the successor to Matthijs Boelee, who was associated with the academy for over 20 years. “I feel I have taken over the baton well - that the relay race has simply continued. I don't want to say it is easy, but it has been better than I expected. You never know one hundred percent what is coming your way and how you will react to the position beforehand. You jump in at the deep end, but if I may say so myself, the baton has been firmly passed on.”

I am focusing on the craftsmanship of the designs and showing that on social media and in our communications.

One element that helps is that Schepers and Boelee are on the same page when it comes to their view of the fashion profession. “We are completely aligned regarding craftsmanship, construction and the tactile aspects of fashion design. I wanted to continue that in my own way. The core of the academy remains incredibly solid in that sense.” However, Schepers says, a breath of fresh air will blow through. “I have a different view and am from a different generation. I have a different network and a different perspective within that viewpoint.”

Schepers indicates that she wants to be more public about what happens at ArtEZ. “I am focusing on the craftsmanship of the designs and showing that on social media and in our communications. What is the work behind the collections?” She indicates that it is not just about technical skills, but also about the theoretical foundation. “For years, we have been seen as the course where beautiful garments are made, and that is of course the case, but it is also preceded by research, substantiation and a thesis. That is the foundation for the final exam.” She wants to show more and more of that background.

For the final exams, a magazine is also created that uses not only images of the final designs, but also of the studio. “The work-in-progress part. Personally, I find that the most interesting aspect of the profession.” The images are accompanied by texts that delve deeper into the motivation behind the collection.

“I see things here that make me think, ‘show this! This is unique!’ Our students know how to draw patterns; they can drape. They touch everything within the design, from the first fibres of the fabrics to the prints. The designer we train is incredibly aware of all phases of the design process. When they enter the professional world, they have an awareness of how everything is created and who is needed for it.”

Changing industry and ArtEZ's place

“The fashion industry is now more diverse and accessible than when I was a student. Designers now have their own channel via social media. We did not have that. On the other hand, there is of course also the influence of social media on the designer. We first started using Facebook when I was here. So now there is more of a view from the inside out and from the outside in.” Schepers indicates that she sees it as her task to protect ArtEZ as a playground where designers can experiment freely without too much outside influence. “That they feel safe here to still play, challenge themselves and make mistakes.”

Students are more aware of finances, but also of the responsibility they have within the industry.

Another fundamental difference between the current generation and Schepers' own is the awareness of the back end of the fashion industry. “They are very realistic. They are concerned with what is needed for a job or their own brand. We were perhaps a bit more driven by an ideal and less aware of practical limitations. Students now have a positive attitude and are more aware of finances, but also of the responsibility they have within the industry. How do you deal with materials, with your design and the people who make it?”

The focus is also no longer solely on becoming the next star designer. “What can you do and what is your strength? We have such a diversity of graduates. One has their own brand; another has a more theoretical practice; but there are also people who already work within a company. We also emphasise that it is very normal to have a side job when you start your own brand or practice. And that you can also be very happy doing that, having your own practice in that way.”

Being more outward-facing also has to do with the academy's positioning in the international arena. “I have my sights set half on the Netherlands and half abroad. We have an international group of students and many will also go on to work internationally or first pursue a master's degree.” ArtEZ is involved in various international collaborations, including with the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa. “We are the only Dutch academy within that international group of schools that works with the Balenciaga museum. It is my job to clarify and strengthen our international positioning.

Head of department and her own brand

With the hustle and bustle just before the final show, you would almost forget that Schepers also has her own fashion brand with partner Anne Bosman. That combination was an important condition for the head of department. “I want to keep one foot in the fashion industry so I can bring all my experiences to the classroom and prepare people for the professional world. I want that interaction.” In practice, Bosman has taken on more of the day-to-day management of the fashion brand, and Schepers works a bit harder during the quiet periods at the academy. “The combination also ensures that we have looked at the brand and really decided what we want. We only want to grow step by step. We are satisfied with our points of sale and our private clients.”

An interesting detail is that Bosman, like Schepers, teaches at ArtEZ. “He was teaching before I was.” Schepers still continues to teach even though she is now head of department. “I absolutely do not want to lose that. It ensures I can get out of my office, away from the computer and sit with the students. That I know what is going on, that I can guide and train them towards their final exams.” She indicates that you cannot manage an academy if you do not know what is happening in the classroom. “Perhaps you can manage it well from a distance, as a manager, but the content is also my responsibility. I cannot do that without being in the classroom.”

On Friday, June 5, is the grand finale for the ArtEZ class of 2026. A proud Schepers will be watching from the wings. Not just at the 'star designers' of tomorrow, but at a new generation of down-to-earth, conscious professionals who are ready for the real fashion world.