MFW: A pragmatic Prada gets a bold shoulder for AW22

As Prada forges deeper into its co-creative partnership between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, two years into a collaboration that began in 2020, a visceral language is starting to unfold.

The Prada-tropes have been there from the start, but re-birthed with a more modern execution. The sleek triangle logo has been brought to the fore, no doubt contributing to the healthy revenue the Milan-based company posted last month. So too have the clashing of ‘ugly’ prints and a revolution of essentialist silhouettes.

Bold new cuts are the foundation for the women’s AW22 collection, echoing the men’s show from January, all executive shoulders and masculine tailoring. On the runway a broad-shouldered grey flannel blazer was shown over a shetland crewneck sweater and transparent embroidered demi length skirt. A statement mixing pragmatism with evening wear.

The size of the shoulder increased across various looks, culminating in a coat dress with an accentuated boat neck and drop down shoulder that blended into an oversized sleeve. A bulky v-neck knit over a panelled flannel skirt look simultaneously heavy and “I mean business”. A green floral embroidered bomber was lengthened to the calf with sleeves extending far below the hand. Fluidity across categories means it can be both coat and dress.

Balenciaga was first to introduce the extreme shoulder and oversized tailoring, and what was different here was the severity of cut instead of a hulkier execution. They worked the best in outerwear, like a rich brown leather biker jacket with a sheep’s collar and cuffs.

In contrast, the branded tanks worn under (and over) sheer dresses cemented the look for fall. It’s simplicity harked back to a Prada era of pared-down fashion, only this time it was decorated and embellished.

In a statement Prada said of the collection: "Colliding traditions in unexpected manners, an inversion and challenge of materials, of embroideries, and of garments, agitate and disturb. Conventionally masculine pieces are transformed, interrupted with the feminine: coats are carved out at the neck or back. The architecture of clothes affect their rapport with the body. Tailoring construction applied to soft dresses to give new forms."