Men’s lace-up footwear SS27: from Dior Homme, Egonlab, Louis Vuitton and more

For several seasons, men's footwear was heavily dominated by chunky running shoes, retro trainers and technical sneakers. SS27 suggests a desire for something more refined and considered.

Among the various footwear styles shown in the Milan and Paris runway shows for SS27, the classic lace-up in many iterations dominated. The obvious reason for this is that menswear is moving back toward footwear with structure, craft and a sense of dressing, while simultaneously making those traditionally formal shoes lighter, softer and more casual.

The important thing is that designers aren't simply bringing back the traditional dress shoe. They are rebuilding the lace-up for a contemporary wardrobe — softer leather, rounded or elongated toes, lighter soles, exaggerated proportions and unexpected materials. Here are ten dress, deck and casual styles for men from the SS27 collections.

Dior Homme SS27 by Jonathan Anderson

A slim-profile distressed off-white silk satin Oxford with frayed edges, a slightly square toe box and embroidered ladybug embellishment.

Thom Browne SS27

A low-top full brogue wingtip derby shoe in polished white patent leather on a tan-colored leather midsole paired with a chunky, block-style medium-height heel and the signature tricolor striped grosgrain pull-tab.

Louis Vuitton SS27 by Pharrell Williams

A beige canvas shoe with raw, frayed, and heavily distressed edges along the collar and overlays with unlaced metallic eyelets, a leather heel pull-tab and an embossed ‘V’ emblem on the tongue.

Dries Van Noten SS27 by Julian Klausner

A lace-up shoe with a minimalist profile in a cheetah and leopard patterned calf-hair.

Auralee SS27 by Ryota Iwai

A black calfskin leather deck shoe with an apron toe and moc-toe detailing with rivet-free tonal lacing.

Egonlab SS27 by Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix

A deck shoe with a moc-toe apron design, two-eyelet leather lace-up closure, white contrast perimeter stitching, and a low-profile black rubber sole.

Kiko Kostadinov SS27

A shoe with a layered blend of textured black mesh and structured rubberlike dark blue leather overlays with a newly developed integrated lacing system.

Taakk SS27 by Takuya Morikawa

An ultra-low profile, deconstructed flat leather lace-up shoe with an extended, bunched lace-up front

Qasimi SS27

The Ultra III Bloom shoe in off-white eco material with its signature injection-molded cage upper designed with a geometric honeycomb cutout upper and a quick-toggle lace system.

Saul Nash x Toworkfor SS27

A boat shoe with a textured mesh and suede upper and a signature drawstring-style lace system on a thick black sole.