Creative rebirth of historic brand Sergio Soldano begins at New York Fashion Week

The latest collection of Sergio Soldano intends to usher in a new chapter for the historic Italian label. Unveiled during an event at the most recent edition of New York Fashion Week, the 77 piece line, with 27 accompanying accessories, marks a creative rebirth for the maison, founded in 1968.

During the show, held at Printemps New York in partnership with Fashion Group International Inc. (FGI), creative directors Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella, who were appointed following Sergio Saldono's acquisition by Desire Holding in 2024, laid out a new visual language for the luxury brand: rooted in Italian art and emotional storytelling, yet remaining future-oriented.

In the 1970s, eponymous designer Sergio Soldano established himself as one of the most distinctive voices in Italian fashion. He was celebrated for a bold, geometric aesthetic, vibrant colours and the ability to enhance the female form. Loved by international high society and figures such as Liz Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida, Monica Vitti and Virna Lisi, the designer presented his collections in Rome, Florence, Milan, New York and Paris.

Today, the Italian brand is based in Varese, at the Italian headquarters of the Desire Holding Group. The showrooms and press office are located in New York, but the operational and strategic headquarters remain in Italy, where production also takes place.

Returning to the New York stage with a AW26 collection, a new narrative has been written in fine materials, with impeccable construction and precious details that define the Sergio Soldano woman as elegant, powerful and contemporary. FashionUnited interviewed Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella to understand the label's objectives and strategy.

What role does Fashion Group International have in the brand relaunch phase?

FGI plays a highly significant and strategic role in the relaunch of Sergio Soldano. As one of the most authoritative institutions in the US fashion industry, FGI represents not only prestige but also a critical vision and deep industry awareness. Its recognition of Sergio Soldano is not merely symbolic. It reflects a profound understanding of the brand's history and intrinsic values. It also shows an immediate and clear perception of the revolutionary new course undertaken by creative directors Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella.

FGI recognised from the outset that this was not a simple revival, but a true Renaissance. It is a visionary repositioning capable of generating cultural and commercial value on an international scale.

Receiving the support and backing of such a prominent institution is both an honour and a powerful distinguishing element. It strengthens the credibility of the new path and sets Sergio Soldano apart in the global fashion landscape as a brand whose evolution is recognised at the highest levels of the industry.

Following the brand's acquisiton in 2024, does the collection presented in New York reflect the beginning of the relaunch?

Yes. Following the acquisition by Desire Holding in 2024 and our appointment to creative direction, Sergio Soldano consciously chose to take the necessary time before re-entering the market.

It was not simply about presenting a new collection, but about building solid and coherent foundations for a true relaunch. The brand undertook a strategic repositioning journey, redefining its identity, distribution vision and market positioning. Simultaneously, significant work was carried out in terms of spatial strategy; supplier selection; and the recruitment of high-level production and distribution partners to ensure a distinctive product and an excellent sales experience.

The collection presented in New York therefore represents the first official chapter of this new era. It is not an immediate reaction to the acquisition, but the result of a carefully constructed vision, designed to ensure value, excellence and differentiation in the international luxury landscape.

What distinctive traits of the brand's DNA have you decided to retain for the relaunch, and what are the innovations?

From a design perspective, nothing has been kept in a literal or nostalgic way. We made a precise and conscious choice not to replicate archival silhouettes or historical stylistic codes. Instead, we have taken a completely new direction, capable of immediately positioning Sergio Soldano in high luxury with a strong, contemporary identity.

At the same time, the essence of the brand's DNA is deeply present throughout the collection, not through a direct citation of the past, but in a more conceptual and emotional dimension. We have revived the universe of Sergio Soldano through his own eyes. Places dear to him; moments; architectural details; artistic influences; visual fragments; and cultural memories have been translated into the language of fashion through the use of art and oil painting.

The real innovation lies precisely in this duality: speaking of tradition while introducing radical modernity. During New York Fashion Week, what made the brand unique was its ability to bring strong innovation while remaining deeply rooted in its heritage. It is not a nostalgic revival, but a cultural transformation where memory becomes vision and tradition becomes a platform for future-focused luxury.

What are the revenue goals for 2026? What is the revenue for 2025?

At the moment, we are not focused on short-term turnover targets, but rather on the brand's strategic positioning. Rather than focusing on numbers, we are working to place Sergio Soldano in highly selective, high-profile contexts that can strengthen its identity and differentiate it in the luxury landscape.

The priority is to position the brand alongside key top players, consolidating visibility, credibility and value in the long term. We are convinced that solid positioning and quality partnerships will naturally generate sustainable economic growth.

Who is the brand's target market? What is the average price for the end customer?

The brand's female target is in the top-tier luxury segment. The Sergio Soldano woman is cultured, international and deeply aware of her own identity.

She is not guided by trends, but by vision. She appreciates craftsmanship, artistic research and exclusivity. She moves naturally between cultural capitals and global economic hubs, choosing garments that express authority, refinement and uniqueness. She invests in creations that encapsulate narrative, heritage and innovation in equal measure.

From a retail positioning perspective, the brand is in the high-end luxury segment. The average retail price reflects top designer standards. The ready-to-wear is positioned in the premium luxury bracket. Statement pieces, outerwear and highly artisanal creations reach higher price points, consistent with the manufacturing quality and stylistic research. The pricing strategy aligns with the brand's repositioning, its entirely Italian supply chain and a selective, elevated distribution.

What is the retail strategy for the US, Europe, and Italy? Are there plans to open single-brand stores?

The retail strategy will certainly include all the areas mentioned: the US, Europe and Italy. It will also include the future development of flagship stores and a dedicated e-commerce platform. However, at this stage, our priority is strongly focused on the growth of the American market. We consider this to be deeply linked to the brand's heritage and international history.

We are approaching each market with great respect, carefully studying its dynamics and adopting an almost tailor-made approach. For us, expansion must be coherent and significant. We are in no hurry to grow without first defining the right positioning codes, the appropriate distribution partners and a solid brand narrative. Growth will be selective, strategic and perfectly aligned with Sergio Soldano's elevated positioning.

Will you also present the collection in Italy, during Milan Fashion Week at the end of February?

No, we will not be presenting the collection in Milan. The official presentation took place in New York. We are preparing a dedicated launch and presentation moment for the brand in Milan, but this will be a later event, at a more advanced stage of our journey.