Copenhagen Fashion Week FW24 key trends
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Fashion
Now firmly established as the gateway to the runway season, Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) goes from strength to strength. With its reputable 18-point sustainability criteria and its egalitarian ethos, CPHFW is seen as a leader in the arena of sustainable and ethical fashion.
The FW24 shows ran from Monday, January 29 to Friday, February 2, 2024 with 29 participating designers. At the outset of the week attendees were reminded that the ongoing wars and the uncertain outcome of this year’s American elections will cast a long shadow over the forthcoming season.
According to Wallpaper.com, the fashion council’s CEO Cecilie Thorsmark stated that: “We need to … make ourselves heard and push for change. Whether we push for a better climate, peace, more diversity and inclusion, political stability, or the safeguarding of our democracy.”
This uncertainty about our future has manifested itself in a desire for structure, the classics and/or cozy layering. To that end, strong trends emerged that we will most likely see repeated over the next few weeks. Here are five of the best.
Sweater Weather
Wearing soft and cozy knitwear is at the core of the Danish cultural trend known as hygge. Designers showed a wide range of versatile sweater knits, often in matching sets.
Aeron: Designer, Eszter Áron
Look 17: A plant-dyed rusty brown ribbed wool three-piece set including a maxi dress, cardigan and balaclava. A leather belt and boots completed the look.
Emilie Helmstedt
Look 57: A sweater, beanie and long scarf in a variegated pink, yellow and ochre striped mohair knit was embellished with whimsical ghost face pins and shown with black cargo pants and Ugg boots.
Paolina Russo: Designers, Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard
Look 9: A turtle-necked cable-knit vest and matching mini-skirt in a pink neutral tone was shown with a printed knit top, fair-isle arm warmers and a beanie in the same pattern. Olive technical boots finished the look.
TG Botanical: Designer, Tetyana Chumak
Look 35: A lime and brown rib-knit zip cropped cardigan and matching mini-skirt was created in collaboration with the artist Dasha Tsapenko and was made of natural plant-based yarn and “inoculated with spores of polypore fungus.”
Henrik Vibskov
Look 47: A sweater, leggings and a balaclava in a brown and orange intarsia pattern were shown under a short coat with the same print in orange, yellow and brown wool. Accessories included clear frame glasses and black ankle boots.
School Rules
The re-emergence of the necktie as an important accessory has recently been predicted by many sources. Several Copenhagen designers took a further step, delivering styles that resembled boy’s school uniforms or tailored menswear.
Forza Collective: Designer, Kristofer Kongshaug
Look 1: A white short sleeved shirt and black tie under a transparent layer and a grey skirt with a side split. Accessories included aquamarine knee socks and ochre-colored slip-ons.
Mark Kenly Domino Tan Studio
Look 23: A flecked grey gabardine three-piece pant suit over a cream blouse with oversized bow. Knee-length slouchy black boots completed the look.
Mfpen: Designer, Sigurd Bank
Look 11: A pinstripe shirt and textured black tie with a safety pin. Grey gabardine pants had a silver chain belt. Silver shoes finished the look.
Skall Studio: Designers, Julie and Marie Skall
Look 21: A classic black single breasted duffle coat with toggle closures and patch pockets.
The Garment: Designer, Charlotte Eskildsen
Look 43: A white shirt with an elongated collar and cuffs under a yellow cable-knit sweater with a deep vee and brown wool pants. Accessories included a grey textured tie and black belt.
Sports Hour
As has often been reported in recent years, it’s thanks to designers like the late Virgil Abloh that athleticwear has had such a strong influence on fashion. It’s a trend that sees no signs of slowing down. CPHFW designers appeared to be particularly drawn to color-blocked garments. Another example of a tendency toward rigor in design this season.
Alpha Showcase
Look 51: A color-blocked skirt in black, blue and cream teamed with a cream-colored mock turtleneck and a matching crossbody scarf with white slides.
Baum und Pferdgarten: Designers, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave
Look 25: A hooded windbreaker in navy and purple over a white polo and embellished miniskirt. Accessories included an oversized pink suede tote with grommets and black patent pointy toed flats.
J. Lindeberg
Look 11: A color-blocked knit top in black, blue and cream with a black split-front skirt, a crescent shaped blue bag and black ankle boot.
Saks Potts: Designers, Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts
Look 13: A color-blocked knit mini dress in red, slate blue and white with a beige wide belt and fringed black suede boots.
Elisabet Stamm
Look 22: A white puffer jacket with a red, blue and black design and matching pants, both in a technical material.
Lady Luck
After the commercial success of miniskirts last year, hemlines are dropping and the midi length skirt looks set to be popular this season. Several CPHFW designers showed ladylike looks that featured a straight mid-length skirt reminiscent of Prada styles of the ‘nineties.
Alpha Showcase
Look 1: A semi-translucent top and skirt with torn pale blue textured patches and matching flats and a slouchy bag.
Baum und Pferdgarten: Designers, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave
Look 61: A translucent embellished skirt with a logo-emblazoned tank top over a white shirt, black patent flats and black hosiery.
Forza Collective: Designer, Kristofer Kongshaug
Look 41: A bright white turtle neck knit top and white midi-skirt with white hose and ballet flats.
Gestuz: Designer, Sanne Sehested
Look 51: An oversized cardigan in brushed wool with a ribbed trim in two shades of blue and a mid-length blue wool skirt. Accessories included a beaded bag with a silver chain handle and black patent flats.
Skall Studio: Designers, Julie and Marie Skall
Look 23: A grey knit slim fit turtleneck and grey plaid bias cut midi skirt accessorized by Oxford shoes and ankle socks.
Sing the blues
Perhaps because our post-pandemic desire for casualwear is still in play, not to mention a growing interest in Western gear, expect to see plenty of denim looks again this season. The runways of Copenhagen were packed with fresh silhouettes and washes. However, the biggest standouts were double denim outfits in a light blue wash.
Stine Goya
Look 21: A longline fitted jacket with a wide belt in light wash denim over a mid-length matching skirt and jeans.
Ganni: Designer, Ditte Reffstrup
Look 23: A slim line shirt/jacket under a matching wrap skirt embellished with beading and a fringed hemline, all in a light wash.
Gestuz: Designer, Sanne Sehested
Look 59: A cropped zip-up jacket with high-waisted jeans, both in a light wash.
Baum und Pferdgarten: Designers, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave
Look 31: A longline single-breasted jacket in a light wash denim with a logo print and matching jeans.
Skall Studio: Designer, Julie and Marie Skall
Look 37: A classic denim jacket in a light wash with a matching mid-length skirt.