In Antwerp, the Jacmin sisters discuss the demanding reality of an independent brand

There is something quite rare about what Ségolène and Alexandra Jacmin do. No unnecessary noise, no growth at all costs, and no back-to-back Parisian shows just for the sake of being on a calendar. In 10 years, the two sisters have built Façon Jacmin with a logic that is almost akin to entrepreneurial craftsmanship: taking it step by step, staying true to their creative origins, and never compromising on quality.

From their own boutique in Antwerp and a network of carefully selected retailers, they have successfully established themselves far beyond Belgium. Asia is now their main business-to-business (B2B) market, a presence built gradually and almost organically. On the occasion of their tenth anniversary, FashionUnited met with the two founders to understand what ten years of independence teaches and demands.

In a few words, what is the aesthetic of Façon Jacmin?

Ségolène Jacmin: It is truly a wardrobe designed for the empowerment of the wearer, with pieces that are strong in both material and cut. We call the brand Façon Jacmin because it refers to the quality of the craftsmanship – the finishes and fabrics have always been very important to us. There are also many contrasts in the brand: masculine/feminine, oversized, fitted, and a mix of tailoring with a more street-style edge.

Alexandra Jacmin: We also deconstruct garments a lot to play with the codes of different types of pieces. Trompe-l'œil and illusion are recurring themes: playing with codes, deconstructing them, and transforming one garment to create another. We also see this in upcycling. As my sister said, we mix the masculine and feminine wardrobes extensively, with rather oversized proportions combined with more fitted pieces.

Why did you want to create your brand in 2016, and what was your mindset ten years ago?

SJ: I really wanted to create my own business, be independent, and do things from start to finish. I had worked in consulting, and something was missing... creativity, even though I did not have a creative background at all. Then there was the freedom to do things our own way, the satisfaction of starting something and watching it grow. I also wanted a tangible product rather than a service, and I have always loved building relationships – being in contact with people and evoking emotions through clothing. For me, it is really the entrepreneurial side combined with the creative product.

AJ: For me, it was really the creative aspect. I had worked for other designers and houses before creating the brand, and I wanted to create for myself, from scratch, not for an existing house. When my sister suggested it, I thought I had the experience and wanted to embark on a joint project with her. I also wanted to bring more confidence and strength to the people who wear our clothes. It was very stimulating to think that we could offer something extra through a garment.

“Over time, I gained more and more confidence and learned to let go.”

How have you evolved the style of Façon Jacmin over the past ten years?

AJ: It happened gradually. In the beginning, we really had to test materials and familiarise ourselves with many things. I did not have someone with me yet to truly explore everything I wanted to do. Over time, I gained more and more confidence and learned to let go. A few years ago, we welcomed a pattern cutter-designer to the team. With him, I was able to really let my creativity flow, whether in volumes, cuts, or finishes. This really helped in the brand's evolution. With my sister too, the pieces were perhaps more timeless in the beginning. Our eye has changed, our vision has evolved, and we wanted more to stand out, to innovate, and to make the product even more desirable.

What makes a product desirable?

AJ: It is true that it is difficult to say. I think it first has to please us, to give us something, and we have to feel good in the garment. Desirability goes hand in hand with comfort. We do not want a restrictive garment; that is the opposite of desirability. When you see a person constrained by their clothing, you can feel it. I believe desirability is also about how the person wears the piece, beyond the cut and colours. That is what creates desire, what brings desirability in my opinion.

SJ: Sometimes, we realise that for women, this balance between femininity and something strong is very important. For example, this piece [Ségolène is wearing a sweatshirt with a two-in-one zip feature], I think is very desirable. It works extremely well; it has an original side, but it is in the attitude, in the way it drapes. It is especially when you see the person feeling good in it, feeling strong. The person's energy is what makes the piece desirable.

What are Façon Jacmin's bestsellers?

SJ: The sweatshirt I am wearing, for example. We also have an upcycled bustier made from a T-shirt; it is super comfortable, very easy to wear, and sells very well. We have unisex jackets, the Fly and Marty models, which are very popular for their cut. There is also a jacket in what we call 'brown wax' – it is like leather, but it is not. We also have velvet models, the McFly Velvet, with a brown velvet under which blue denim appears at the points of wear. The shirts also do very well: they have a beautiful classic cut, but always with a twist, a bit of deconstruction.

The collections must have grown. How many pieces were there at the start, and how do you organise the quantity and pace today?

SJ: We have always done two seasons a year. The first collection had about 30 pieces. We evolved, each time carrying over half, or a little less. When we launched into B2B and international markets, we had to gradually increase the size of the collections. Today we are at around 80 new styles and 60 total references, so we have doubled. It is a lot.

AJ: Yes, counting all the material variations. We always try to have a balance between new styles and carry-over styles in different materials. This is also to offer different look proposals, because with a smaller number, it is difficult to offer real variety.

“Until now, we have always done everything to keep up with this pace, and it is only now that we are realising it may not be necessary.”

There is a lot of talk about the frantic pace of collections and professional burnout. Have you had to refuse certain things to protect your mental health or the brand's integrity?

SJ: Until now, we have always done everything to keep up with this pace, and it is only now that we are realising it may not be necessary. After several seasons in B2B, we realise it is going too fast. We never have time to step back, to analyse certain things, or to change others. It takes time to think, and that is really the negative point of B2B for me. Everyone maintains this rhythm and these urgencies, and one might wonder why. The public and the sector always need newness, ever faster. This is strongly felt in fashion, but ultimately it is a reflection of society as a whole.

Do you think a change is possible in the coming years?

SJ: It is difficult to say. On one hand, yes, some things will have to change. I find it hard to project into the future. We have been talking about slowing down, questioning fast fashion, and sustainability for a long time. We see some changes, but they are small compared to the bulk of the sector.

Can an independent brand like yours afford to slow down?

AJ: I would like us to present later than June. The problem is that afterwards, buyers have less budget available for orders. We are a bit stuck. We are a small brand; we can afford it less. It would imply a transition, skipping a season...

You are twin sisters, and the press often romanticises family duos. How does it work in practice when, for example, Alexandra's creativity clashes with the financial realities Ségolène must impose?

AJ: I will try to convince my sister that we need certain materials, even if they are expensive. Sometimes there are disagreements – she thinks about the cost and I have the results more in mind. I tell myself that despite the price, it will be convincing. We try to find alternatives.

SJ: It is a process. It was complicated at the beginning; we even had a coach at one point to better understand that we are different and communicate differently. Since then, it has been much better. I think being sisters really helps. If it were a partner with no family ties, it would be even more complicated. We can be frank with each other, and we know we will always get past it. The brand has brought us closer.

What are Façon Jacmin's successes that you are proud of?

AJ: First, the team. Over the years, we have really developed a great team. I was just thinking about it yesterday.

SJ: Me too, it is often the first thing I think of. Otherwise, a significant moment was the show in Paris. When I did the briefing with everyone and saw all those people gathered, I was wow, really moved. I was proud.

Are you considering another show in Paris?

SJ: In principle, yes. When we did it the first time, it was already with the idea of potentially doing it again. We also said, with Alex and Lola [Lola Clabots, the press manager who works with the brand], that if we did it again, it had to be done well: budget, time, everything. We are a small team; organising that every season is a heavy lift. So yes, why not, but without the pressure of the calendar. There are already enough constraints in the sector. If it also impacts the collection's progress, it is not sustainable. It is also a question of budget.

What is your assessment of that first Parisian show?

SJ: It helped us enormously. It gives credibility: buyers and industry people see it and think that it marks an evolution, that it is professional and serious.

AJ: Yes, it also helps for the online business. The main idea for me was to make a statement for B2B: to be taken seriously by buyers. We have a high-end positioning and are looking for that type of retailer, so it was important to show that we are on the calendar and that we are credible. I think we were happy; there were a lot of people, it was well done, and it was talked about a lot.

What advice would you give to young designers who want to launch independently?

SJ: You really have to be patient. Have the right expectations about development and know that it takes time to get where you want to be. You also have to be aware of the financial need it implies. Do not be naive; know that it requires a lot of investment and do not think that everything will run smoothly after one year.

AJ: And have a clear vision of what you want in terms of DNA. Know what products you want to create and be really good at what you do. There are so many brands on the market that you really need to have a clear idea and vision.

What are your plans for the future?

SJ: To continue to evolve well, stay true to our values, and grow the business in a controlled way, always with our initial idea. We have always done things step by step, and that is why we are satisfied today. So, more international presence, more retailers, and maybe pop-ups around the world, two or three a year, to raise brand awareness. We have also talked about potential future collaborations with established brands or otherwise.

What is Façon Jacmin's biggest market?

SJ: In B2B, it is Asia, specifically China. With the boutique and the website, it is Belgium. What is interesting is that on our site, the US at one point made up half of the orders. There is a retailer who sells our brand in New York, perhaps through a collaboration with influencers. Broadly speaking, Asia really represents an important market for us.

And Japan in particular?

SJ: Yes, Japan is where we started testing B2B. We had requests to stock the brand very early on. It took a little time, but yes, it is a good market. We already had many Japanese customers initially. I think the aesthetic speaks to them, and European products, especially Belgian ones, have a good reputation there.

And Façon Jacmin in ten years, what will it look like?

SJ: Even more customers, more retailers, and maybe a larger boutique in Antwerp, or another boutique elsewhere, perhaps in Paris.

AJ: I would like the boutique space to evolve, to be even more of an experience, and to better represent the brand as it is today.