Takashimaya buyer: “Berlin Fashion Week has a unique identity”

With more than 180 years of history, Takashimaya is one of Japan's most traditional and renowned premium department stores. The company is known for its carefully curated range of luxury fashion, international designer brands and high-quality lifestyle products.

For Shuhei Iwasa, a womenswear buyer at Takashimaya, Berlin Fashion Week has become a firm fixture on the international fashion calendar. In this interview, he explains why Berlin is becoming increasingly interesting for the Japanese market with its focus on sustainability and creative diversity. Iwasa also discusses which Berlin labels impressed him this season and why the story behind a brand is just as important to him as the product itself.

What makes Berlin Fashion Week different from the others?

I regularly visit fashion weeks in Paris, Milan and other cities. Berlin may be smaller, but that is precisely what makes it different. While other fashion weeks often revolve around major brands or designers, Berlin Fashion Week has a clear focus on sustainability. Sustainable concepts are combined with good design and creative quality here, a balance that is rare. Furthermore, every brand tells its own story, which gives the Fashion Week a unique identity. For me, it reflects the culture of Berlin, and that is what I find particularly exciting.

What makes Berlin interesting for you as a buyer?

Japan has many fashion-conscious customers, so we are constantly looking for new brands. It is difficult, however, to find labels that combine sustainability, good design and creative quality in equal measure. I see great potential in Berlin, which is why Berlin Fashion Week is an important platform for us. You see a lot of Japanese buyers here now.

Which brands particularly stood out to you this season?

I found Fruché interesting. The choice of materials impressed me. The silhouettes, styling and combination of different materials also show the designer's strong, distinctive style. We have also been keeping an eye on Buzigahill for some time and have already bought from them. The brand is developing very well and growing steadily.

Haderlump was also wonderful. I was impressed by the balance of elegance and strength created by the unique designs and silhouettes. The designers have now established a very clear identity and made a name for themselves internationally. The collection was outstanding.

Are you planning to expand your range to include more Berlin labels?

We are watching many brands very closely. Our initial focus is on developing our existing range and gradually adding new labels. In doing so, we always check whether the products are a good fit for the Japanese market and the needs of our customers - especially in terms of fit and proportions.

What adjustments are particularly important for the Japanese market?

Fit plays a major role. If necessary, we have garments altered or work with the brands to adapt the sizes for the Japanese market.

Cultural differences are also important. Many Japanese customers prefer garments with a slimmer fit, as oversized silhouettes are sometimes perceived as messy rather than stylish.

Are there specific colours or designs you are looking for? Many collections in Berlin are characterised by a rather muted colour palette.

As for international brands, we are particularly interested in designs, patterns and colours that are not available in Japan. That is why I would definitely like to see more colour - not just black and white. Unusual colour combinations and hybrid design approaches in particular make international brands attractive to Japanese customers.

How is the Japanese fashion market currently developing?

The market has recovered significantly since the pandemic. At the same time, consumer behaviour has changed. People are still spending money on fashion, but they are thinking more carefully about what they spend it on.

In the luxury segment, we continue to see strong demand, especially for handbags. Fashion trends vary greatly depending on the category. Therefore, the market cannot be described in general terms - it depends heavily on the respective product.

Consumer sentiment in Europe is currently rather weak. Are you observing a similar trend in Japan?

There are some parallels, but the situation is not identical. In Japan, too, people are paying more attention to their spending than before the pandemic. Nevertheless, interest in fashion remains high. The demand is there, but people are shopping more consciously.

What influence do social media and influencers have on the Japanese market?

Influencers certainly play a role, especially with younger target groups. Large luxury groups such as LVMH and Kering work closely with Korean pop stars and K-pop idols. This influences many young consumers. Nevertheless, they are now making more conscious decisions about what they spend their money on.

Final question: how important is the story behind a brand?

For me as a buyer for a department store, it is crucial. Good products alone are not enough; I also want to understand the personalities of the designers and the story behind a brand. Department stores in particular stand for trust, quality and credibility. That is why storytelling is a decisive factor in our selection process. Our customers expect not only beautiful products but also authenticity and a clear brand identity.