Streetstyle FW26: collars, leather jackets and colour accents at Milan Fashion Week

During the autumn/winter 2026 edition of Milan Fashion Week, the focus on the street shifts from bold statement pieces to the power of styling. In Milan, this season's fashion landscape is not defined by a single dominant silhouette. Instead, it is shaped by the way classic wardrobe staples are recombined and recontextualised. Details around the neckline, strategic colour accents and a clear preference for leather set the tone.

A notable aspect is the balance between subtlety and expression. Neutral palettes form the foundation, while subtle interventions, such as a contrasting collar, a loosely worn tie or a pair of leather gloves, give the look direction. The street style thus shows a shift towards a more personal, layered approach to fashion, where small accents make all the difference. Six key themes stand out.

Jackets with contrasting collars

The contrasting collar acts as a sharply defined frame within the jacket. Dark barn jackets with a light, often white or cream-coloured collar, create a graphic effect. Ton-sur-ton (tone-on-tone) variations in different materials, such as wool or nylon combined with leather, corduroy or cotton, also achieve this. The silhouette remains classic but gains a completely new focus through the colour difference.

Double collar

Even more striking is the double collar: two shirts layered over each other, or a leather gilet with a blouse collar subtly peeking out from underneath. The result looks deliberately nonchalant. It fits within a broader movement where personal styling is becoming more important than a fully thought-out look. It is a play on proportion and texture, like cotton under wool or poplin under jersey, that adds depth to the outfit without the need for new silhouettes.

Leather jacket as a key piece

If there is one item that dominates the Italian street style scene, it is the leather jacket. From straight, almost masculine models to fitted versions with an ultimate nineties feel, leather is worn as a natural part of the everyday wardrobe. Its versatility is striking. Styles range from cropped jackets with a sharp funnel neck to long, blazer-like coats with a single row of buttons and oversized trench coats loosely cinched at the waist with a belt. The jacket appears effortlessly over tailoring, over chunky knitwear and even in combination with more formal looks. It thereby loses its subcultural edge and emerges as one of the most flexible and defining pieces of the season.

Pop of red technique

In a street style scene dominated by black, grey and earthy tones, a saturated red repeatedly appears. This can be a bag that cuts across the silhouette, a pair of pumps glowing from under a long hem, or a knit or jacket that breaks through the winter layers as a statement. In the often muted palette of the cold season, red functions as a light source. It is a pulse of energy that invigorates minimalist looks and reaffirms how a single, strategically placed colour can define an entire outfit.

Tie as an enduring style element

Although the tie has been back on the street style scene for some time, Milan confirms that the accessory is not losing its momentum. Particularly noteworthy is the way it is worn: unknotted, combined with oversized tailoring or with soft, more feminine shapes. The tie thus loses its formal connotation and becomes a free styling element. It is more of a line in the silhouette than a symbol of dress codes.

No longer just practical: gloves

Gloves are making a remarkably elegant comeback as a fully-fledged styling element in the street style of Milan Fashion Week. From buttery-soft leather models that act almost as a second skin to longer versions that elongate the silhouette, they add an almost cinematic accent. This applies to sharp tailoring, voluminous coats and nonchalantly draped knitwear alike. They are worn not so much for warmth, but as a finishing touch.

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