Schiaparelli opens Paris Haute Couture with a sculptural collection of silicone, pearls and tentacles
Paris - Schiaparelli opened Paris Haute Couture Week on Monday with sculptural silicone dresses and marine references.
Titled “The Abyss”, Schiaparelli's collection for the autumn/winter 2026/2027 season was filled with ultra-tight corsets in synthetic materials, paired with transparent embroidered skirts or pearl-covered trousers.
“We have worked tirelessly to develop new manufacturing techniques and new materials, previously unseen in haute couture,” explained the American Daniel Roseberry, the brand's artistic director since 2019, in a press release. “The hyper-realistic bodice of a dress is not moulded, but sculpted before being cast in silicone and painted sky blue.”
Another look included a white silicone jacket with a trompe-l'œil lace section. This is a technique frequently used by the house, which was also employed by its founder, the Italian Elsa Schiaparelli.
The marine inspiration is evident in several outfits. One look featured a black latex piece with tentacles, while another included a tulle dress covered in black silicone dots, resembling scales and reminiscent of a jellyfish.
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The Puerto Rican artist, who performed two concerts in the French capital this weekend, wore a pastel yellow suit and a gold braided tie. On his lapel, he wore two of the brand's signature brooches: a lock and an eye.
However, the most anticipated moment of the day will be the Dior show, where Jonathan Anderson will present his second haute couture collection for the French brand since taking the creative helm last year.
For his haute couture debut in January, the Northern Irish designer proposed a wardrobe full of floral allusions.
It seems that nature will also be a strong theme this Monday, according to images shared by the brand on Instagram, which show lush plants against the sounds of a thunderstorm.
Another key moment of this edition will be the Chanel show on Tuesday, where Franco-Belgian Matthieu Blazy will also present his second haute couture collection for the double-C brand.
The Balenciaga and Jean Paul Gaultier shows on Wednesday are also highly anticipated. Both have recently changed creative directors and were absent last season. They are among the 30 houses presenting their collections until Thursday.
Unlike Fashion Week, haute couture is held exclusively in the French capital. It takes place in January for the summer season and in July for the winter season. It is a French speciality where unique, handmade pieces are presented, primarily intended for grand galas and red carpets.
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