AW24 fashion week season preview: Debuts, returnees and events to look out for

The AW24 womenswear fashion week season is swiftly approaching, and with so many debutants and comebacks on the agendas, it looks to be an exciting time for the industry. Before we dive into the impending schedules, FashionUnited has gathered all the information you need to know to prepare you for what is ahead.

New York: February 9 to 14

Debuts

Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Feb 11: Nearly one year on from stepping down as creative director of Ann Demeulemeester, Ludovic de Saint Sernin will be making an international debut for his eponymous brand.

Câllas, Feb 10: Derek Lam will be making his debut under the Italian label Câllas, with his first collection aiming to bolster a recognisable brand identity through distinctive silhouettes in all categories.

Others: Bishme Cromartie, Colleen Allen, Jane Wade and Meruert Tolegen

Returnees

Puma, Feb 8: One year on from its last NYFW, sportswear label Puma is planning a reboot which will celebrate the revival of its 1999 Mostro sneaker.

Tommy Hilfiger, Feb 9: Tommy Hilfiger will be making a return for this season, with a showcase that it said would reflect a “modern-day expression of Classic American Cool” and involve a re-exploration of the brand’s original preppy roots.

Thom Browne, Feb 14: CFDA chairman Thom Browne will be returning to his home turf after previously showing in Paris to close out NYFW on its final day.

Others: Monse Lafayette 148 and Libertine

Special events

National Geographic, Feb 10: Ahead of its upcoming female-led docuseries ‘Queens’, National Geographic will be debuting at NYFW with an immersive show highlighting animal matriarchal themes while championing emerging designers.

Delpozo: As part of the Spanish brand’s relaunch, Delopozo will be taking to NYFW with a by-appointment-only presentation to commemorate its 50-year anniversary.

London: February 16 to 20

Debuts

FitFlop x Roksanda, Feb 17: Shortly after revealing a renewed brand image, footwear brand FitFlop is now set to debut a collaboration with LFW regular Roksanda with a collection designed by a joint in-house team and will extend beyond the current season.

Returnees

Dunhill, Feb 16: Following a brief hiatus with the last show being in 2020, Dunhill is preparing to return to LFW with an intimate runway to celebrate the arrival of its new creative director Simon Holloway, with the event also coinciding with the brand’s 130th anniversary.

Special events

Ukrainian Fashion Week, Feb 10: Now in its third edition, Ukrainian Fashion Week will once again stage a joint show during LFW, this time bringing Tamar Keburia, J’Amemme and Gasanova, each of which will exhibit their FW24/25 collections.

1664 Blanc: As part of London’s city-wide celebration schedule, lead sponsor 1664 Blanc will be hosting an experience in Selfridges where a programme in the retailer’s cinema will see industry veterans and trailblazers take to the floor with various talks.

Milan: February 20 to 26

Debuts

Sagaboi, Feb 22: On the back of his menswear debut during AW23 LFW, Geoff Cooper will be bringing his young Caribbean-inspired label to Milan this year, where he is expected to continue building on the fusion of his Trinidadian heritage with West Indian culture.

Tod’s, Feb 23: As such, there will also be a shift at the Italian leather brand, where former Bottega Veneta designer Matteo Tamburini will also be making his debut following his appointment to the helm in December.

Blumarine, Feb 23: This season will see the debut of Walter Chiapponi as creative director for Blumarine, a role he took up after departing from Tod’s earlier last year.

Feben, Feb 25: A newer name on the schedule, however, is London-based and former LFW regular Feben, who will be taking to Milan with support from Dolce & Gabbana.

Returnees

Marni, Feb 23: Among those returning to the line up is Marni, which had briefly strayed from the Milanese schedule to hold shows in Paris, Tokyo and New York as part of a wider initiative to bring the brand closer to customers worldwide.

Paris: February 26 to March 5

Debuts

Rochas, Feb 28: The newest creative director for Rochas, Alessandro Vigilante, is expected to redefine the house’s identity while instilling new codes for his debut this season.

Chloé, Feb 29: Chemena Kamali will be making her creative director debut for Chloé this season, a brand that she already had ties with after previously serving as a designer before a stint at Saint Laurent.

Alexander McQueen, March 2: Following the departure of the brand’s long-term creative director Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen will be entering a new era under the guidance of its freshly appointed lead Seán McGirr, who swapped his position with Ann Demeulemeester for the helm spot of the British brand.

Zomer, March 5: Following a previous exhibition in an off-schedule event with Dover Street Market last season, new brand Zomer will be taking Paris this year, with a collection designed by founders Daniel Aitouganov and Dazed Digital’s Imruh Asha.

Returnees

Lacoste, March 5: Over two years on from its previous PFW show for SS22 and Lacoste will be returning to the City of Lights under the creative direction of its lead designer Pelagia Kolotourus, who made her debut at the brand during New York Fashion Week last year.

Off-White, Feb 29: After missing recent seasons, Off-White will be making its return to the Paris stage with a co-ed show dubbed ‘Black by Popular Demand’, marking the third presentation under the creative direction of Ibrahim Kamara.

Special events

Louis Vuitton, March 5: This season will mark the 10th anniversary of Nicolas Ghesquière heading the creative direction of womenswear at Louis Vuitton and sees the French luxury house return to its usual spot to close out the week. Ahead of the occasion, Ghesquière has been looking back at his time at the brand on his social media, building excitement and anticipation for the upcoming show.