At the Chanel show, Matthieu Blazy continues his reinvention of the suit

Matthieu Blazy's fourth show for Chanel did not disappoint. For autumn/winter 2026, the Franco-Belgian designer continued to modernise the house's iconic suit, while making low-rise a new sartorial desire.

Layering, low-rise and iridescence

Set against a backdrop of cranes, the season's first look is pragmatic: a black ribbed knit suit, comprising a zipped jacket and a knee-length skirt, itself zipped at the side. The silhouette reflects the collection: an effortlessly elegant appearance, which only a house like Chanel seems capable of delivering.

The jackets, as key pieces, are alternately long and short, sometimes wide and padded at the shoulders, and almost always worn open to allow for a clever interplay of layering. On several occasions, shirts extend beyond and cover the skirt; a grey cardigan is visible here, a tweed jacket under a blouson there. Blazy plays with a "tiered silhouette" and simultaneously presents numerous products in a single look.

The mastery of proportions is also evident in several low-rise skirts and dresses, accentuated by a belt: a style inherited from Gabrielle Chanel. The spirit of the 1920s is not far off, evoking the idea of freedom associated with it.Like Blazy's latest Chanel collections, the tweed suits adopt a more whimsical grammar to better distance themselves from any seriousness that might be associated with them. The colours are bold, the materials lightweight.

The show concludes with a series of iridescent silhouettes in a fresh palette, harmonising with the models' hair colour. The looks – slip dresses and suits – become iridescent, colourful, shedding their seriousness to offer an assured eccentricity. Then, two dark silhouettes close the show, a nod to Chanel's famous little black dress.