One of the canniest rising stars of fashion, the French house Jacquemus put on perhaps the most luxurious show of the season in Paris on Monday, putting stars such as Victoria and David Beckham on boats on the lake of the Palace of Versailles to watch the catwalk along the water's edge.
French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus's new collection, inspired by Lady Diana and Marie Antoinette, was revealed on a long red podium installed on the grass at the royal site southwest of the capital.
Jacquemus called the show "Le Chouchou" -- French for 'darling' but also for scrunchy hair ties in reference to some of the puffy shapes of the dresses as worn by the likes of Kendall Jenner.
"I was going to call it 'La culotte' (the panties), but it was too ugly for Versailles," he said with a laugh.
The feminine looks -- practically all white with some flashes of black and pink -- featured openwork tights and white knee-high stockings with rose touches.
"I was always obsessed with Lady Di and started collecting 90s magazines and Vogue covers," he said.
A white dress with black polka dots as well as 80s silhouettes of suits and bomber jackets were "winks" to his "favourite modern princess", he said. The abundance of tutus, meanwhile, evoked Marie-Antoinette's passion for ballet.
"I wanted something very elegant, ballet-inspired, even for men," he said. As with his previous shows -- and many others in the recent fashion week -- there was plenty of skin on show, with cutouts, mini-skirts and transparent materials.
Jacquemus said he began planning the show before he had the green light from Versailles.
"During the first meeting I was told that it wouldn't be possible," he said.
"Now, it's crazy, I have a one-year contract," he added, promising "something special" to come.
'Independent and daring'
True to his taste for independence, Jacquemus held his all-gender show just one day after the official Paris Fashion Week menswear shows had finished.
He has forged a singular and hugely successful path in the fashion game, building 5.6 million followers on Instagram despite staying out of the official fashion week calendar since 2020.
Actresses Monica Bellucci, Eva Longoria and Adele Exarchopoulos were among the invitees who arrived at the site and were taken aboard a water-bound "front row".
"What a place! He's an incredible talent, an artist," said Bellucci, wearing a brown trouser suit.
Star model Gigi Hadid was among those on the catwalk, perched on heels and wearing a light, transparent lace outfit.
After the show, she circled the lake driving a cart, provoking cheers from fashionistas watching from behind barriers.
Among the outfits were some patriotic touches, including red, white and blue dresses, short and transparent in the front and adorned with long trains. "I love my country and I'm proud of it," said Jacquemus.(AFP)