- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
The Zac Posen documentary, House of Z, which made its world premiere in April at Tribeca, has been acquired by Conde Nast Entertainment and will be distributed to rent on Vogue.com.
Directed by Sandy Chronopoulos, the fashion feature-length film chronicles the fashion career of Zac Posen, starting from his meteoric rise at the age of 21 to the glamour behind one of New York’s most distinguished brands.
According to the Hollywood Reporter, Conde Nast Entertainment will distribute House of Z exclusively for rent on Vogue.com in September to coincide with New York Fashion Week.
“We see [Vogue.com] as the perfect fit for our audience while also giving us a chance to attract new viewers,” Dawn Ostroff, president of Condé Nast Entertainment told the Hollywood Reporter. “House of Z is a wonderful film and being able to exclusively provide it to our audience is a great opportunity for Condé Nast and we are very pleased to be working with Zac, Sandy and the iDeal team.”
The documentary showcases the ups and downs of his fashion label through archival material and interviews with Posen’s past and present team, as well as critics, journalists, fashion insiders and celebrities, such as André Leon Talley, Paz de la Huerta, Naomi Campbell, Claire Danes, and Sean “Diddy” Combs.
- Don-Alvin Adegeest |
A new documentary has exposed the harsh reality and often cruel suffering of factory workers who make the garments of some of the world's best-known high street brands.
The film, called Machines, highlights the life of Jain, a factory worker in India. In the first 13 minutes of the film, there is no dialogue, with the camera captures the contrast between the giant machines, which guzzle up fabrics like robots, and then the workers who are no less mechanical in their working as they mix dyes, stoke furnaces and handle the fabrics.
Days are filled with dehumanising physical labour and hardship
Director Rahul Jain takes the viewers into the reality of the factory worker's world, capturing the exhaustive monotony of their tasks. The film examines the dehumanizing physical labor and hardship in the factory, exposes the pre-industrial working conditions and the huge divide between first world and developing countries. Though “Machines” only portrays one of these factories, it also represents the thousands of laborers as well.
When there is dialogue, we hear from the workers themselves – and at one point from their fat-cat boss, who matter-of-factly tells the camera that he shouldn’t pay them so well as they’re much more dedicated to the business when their bellies are empty. By “so well” he means three US dollars per 12-hour shift and most of the workers take just one hour’s break between shifts, such are the financial pressures of providing for their families, states Dazed & Confused. The men discuss the need for unionisation and strike action, as well as the dead-end any attempt at this inevitably leads to – “the bosses just ask who the leader is, and then kills them,” the viewer is told.
Delhi-born, U.S.-educated director Rahul Jain captured the footage in Gujarat, India’s westernmost state. According to Variety, the results are surprising; while the visuals are hypnotic and frequently beautiful, the stories jar with our concepts of poverty in the modern age, as it is revealed that many of these workers are already in debt, having taken out travel loans to work 12-hour shifts and earn wages of just 7,000 rupees (approximately 100 Us dollars) per month.
Photo credit: Film still from Machines
- AFP |
They dress like celebrities and can increasingly be spotted on the world's catwalks and red carpets. Meet the "influencers", the most famous people you've never heard of.
For 70 years, the Cannes film festival has been a key event on any A-lister's calendar. But move over Nicole Kidman, there's a new breed of star in town: social media personalities invited purely on the grounds of their huge Instagram or YouTube followings.
Sharing the red carpet with Kidman and Will Smith this week have been beauty bloggers like 17-year-old Amanda Steele (2.8 million YouTube subscribers) and Swiss Instagrammer Kristina Bazan (2.4 million followers).
Maja Malnar, who makes a living from her blog and 264,000-strong Instagram following, admits she's struggled to explain her job as a "social media influencer" to her mother back in Slovenia.
Years ago she started posting snaps of her daily outfits on the photo app and blogging about her travels. These days she's part of a growing industry known as "influencer marketing", whereby brands seek to harness the power of powerful web-users by slipping their products into their posts. "It's a good business, I can't complain," Malnar told AFP.
The petite blonde, who is in her twenties but declined to give her age, is set to walk the red carpet Friday in a tie-up with MasterCard and the designer who provided her dress. She'll then have to post about it.
"We're entrepreneurs. We saw a gap in the market and we capitalised on it," says her friend Lorna Andrews, a British ex-air hostess who modestly calls herself a "mid-tier influencer" with 464,000 Instagram followers.
Cannes is no stranger to those famous for being famous -- socialites like Paris Hilton have been turning up for years -- and brands have long recognised the festival's power as a marketing opportunity.
Top-end labels and jewellers have for decades dressed the stars for free at Cannes, knowing they will be snapped there by the waiting paparazzi.
But the arrival of the "influencer" at the world's biggest film festival -- and at international fashion weeks -- is a new phenomenon.
Ordinary Janes and Joes
About 18 months ago Edouard Hausseguy, a 27-year-old Frenchman, realised the money-making potential of people whose photos, restaurant tips and beauty tutorials are followed by millions online, even though most would not recognise them on the street.
He set up his agency Hemblem to represent anyone with a following of 30,000 and up -- negotiating deals with brands, and then taking a cut.
"Those people are people like us, but they speak to millions of people with one picture," he told AFP in an interview on a yacht moored at Cannes, where he's hoping his influencers will benefit from the presence of top brands and the media.
For the festival, Hemblem has filled a villa with influencers who are splitting their time between glamorous events and furiously posting online, whether it's about designer labels or a charity for Syrian children.
Co-founder Thomas Elliott said brands were catching on to the power of a recommendation from Instagrammers to shift products from the shelves. "Jane next door or Joe next door is probably better for product placement, as people can identify with these people," he said.
It's possible to get paid for a single post -- "the fee depends on the size of the following", said Joe Gagliese, co-founder of Viral Nation, a rival agency based in Toronto.
"It could be $100,000 if you have over five million followers."
Compare and despair
With 13 million followers apiece, supermodels Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski rank as the true Instagram queens of Cannes.
Their accounts offer red carpet glamour and a peek behind the scenes, like Hadid sipping champagne while preparing for a premiere. Partner brands are carefully name-checked: make-up by Dior, jewellery by Bulgari.
Further down the food-chain, posts by smaller fish in the "influencer" pond still tell of a life of cocktails and beautiful clothes -- but the reality may be a little less glamorous.
There are constant worries of where the next event or brand tie-up might come from, and some re-sell the clothes they are gifted to make ends meet. And behind the glitz there is a constant pressure to post that Andrews and Malnar say can be stressful.
Neither expects to do this job forever. Women aged 18-30 make up the bulk of their followings, and unless these shift there'll come a day when they won't match their young demographic.
Youngsters' heavy use of Instagram is a worry for mental health experts, who warn these glimpses into the glamorous lives of others encourage depression and anxiety by prompting a "compare and despair" attitude.
There's a constant stream of appreciative comments under posts by Hadid and Ratajkowski, but also wistful ones.
Under a video of Hadid wearing custom Roberto Cavalli, one user sighed: "Can I just be her for one day?" (APF).
Homepage photo: Swiss blogger Kristina Bazan poses as she arrives on May 22, 2017 for the screening of the film 'The Killing of a Sacred Deer' at the 70th edition of the Cannes Film Festival in Cannes, southern France. - Credit: Valery HACHE / AFP
- AFP |
French fashion house Chanel has triggered an uproar by selling a luxury monogrammed boomerang with a price tag of nearly 1,500 USD, with critics saying the accessory is an insult to Australian Aborigines.
Chanel is accused of turning the hunting weapon, an important part of Aboriginal heritage, into a status symbol by offering a black wood and resin boomerang for sale in its spring-summer collection.
"When I think about Aboriginal culture, I think @chanel," Aboriginal activist Nayuka Gorrie tweeted sarcastically. "Have decided to save for the next three years so I can connect with my culture via @CHANEL."
He told the Guardian Australia that the item was "so wrong it is almost absurd"."Having a luxury brand swoop in, appropriate, sell our technologies and profit from our cultures for an absurd amount of money is ridiculous and hurtful," he said, pointing out that indigenous people were the most disadvantaged in Australia and had to fight to preserve their traditions.
The furore kicked off when American make-up artist Jeffree Star posted photos online of the boomerang on Tuesday, sparking ridicule.
@JeffreeStar, rather than paying $2000AUD for a Chanel Boomerang you should look into investing in one one made by an Aboriginal Australian.— LSP (@zzoeeseymour) May 15, 2017
Another said on Twitter: "@CHANEL your 'boomerang' is tacky and a gross appropriation of indigenous culture for your own profit." Chanel released a statement saying it was "extremely committed to respecting all cultures, and regrets that some may have felt offended".
Boomerangs have played an important role in Aboriginal culture for thousands of years as objects of work and leisure. They have also become popular mass-produced souvenirs. (AFP)
- FashionUnited |
For anyone who might argue that fashion is trivial or frothy, its weight in literature cannot be underestimated. I have just attended the Franco-Irish Literary Festival where journalists from Vogue and Elle discussed with novelists and screenwriters the importance of clothing in storytelling. Clothes enhance characterization, place us in strangers’ shoes, allow us to inhabit alien landscapes. Speaking to its power Mark Twain said, "Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.” Let’s count down the top seven most influential moments when fiction and fashion have collided.
7. Giacomo Leopardi
In Giacomo Leopardi’s poem entitled A Dialogue Between Fashion and Death, he explores the transience of fashion and parallels it with our own mortality: “Fashion: Do you not recognize me? Death: You must know that I have bad sight, and am without spectacles.” Fashion: I am Fashion, your sister…Do you not remember we are both born of Decay? We both equally profit by the incessant change and destruction of things here below, although you do so in one way, and I in another.”
Fashion is portrayed as a species of grim reaper aiding and abetting our demise, and although written in 1824, the sentiment is eerily applicable to both today’s fast fashion environment in which catastrophes like the Rana Plaza occur, and to our luxury industry in which designers like Alexander McQueen, whose work is celebrated for its dark and beautiful dance with death, succumb to suicide at age 40.
Image:Orlando First Edition, The Hogarth Press 1928 source: www.smith.edu/libraries, and Burberry September 2016
6. Virginia Woolf
“Clothes have more important offices than merely to keep us warm; they change our view of the world and the world’s view of us” wrote Virginia Woolf in Orlando, the 1928 story of a nobleman who passes through time, flits effortlessly between genders, dressed in furs and laces, never aging. The 1992 film version called upon fashion’s favorite androgyne, Tilda Swinton, to fill the title role and that dapper gent Quentin Crisp to play Queen Elizabeth I. Woolf’s novel was a contemporary success despite the unusual subject matter for a female writer but its appeal endures setting the stage for today’s gender non-conformism. From Bloomsbury to Burberry, Christopher Bailey referenced Orlando in his September 2016 womenswear show.
Image: Source Wikimedia Library of Congress, Photographer, Napoleon Sarony, 1882
5. Oscar Wilde
Oscar Wilde, the razor-witted dandy-aesthete, a perennial favorite of fashion designers, was the central influence in Alexander McQueen’s Fall 2017 menswear collection. Wilde’s words ”Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months” foreshadow today’s social media-hungry consumer who craves newness like never before. As editor of fashion magazine, The Woman's World, he predicted in 1887 that the dress of both sexes would be assimilated with women embracing masculine style. His wide-brimmed hats, long locks and sumptuous velvets drew as much attention as his novels and plays but it was his dalliances in the demimonde of male desire, unmentionable at the time, that landed him in Reading gaol. Still, he never forfeited style: ”If one is to behave badly, one should behave badly in a becoming dress.” Words to live by.
4. Margaret Mitchell
In Margaret Mitchell’s 1936 novel Gone With The Wind, Scarlett O’Hara’s lifestyle in the Confederate South is under threat by the imminent freedom of her plantation’s slaves. But our sympathies lie with this poor little rich girl when she is forced to plumb her meagre resources and conjure up a dress out of…curtains. How else will she snag her hero, and the money he brings with him? Who hasn’t backed away from their closet on a Saturday night staring glumly about and wished such inspiration were at hand? When she turns to her long-suffering servant and says, “Scoot up to the attic and get my box of dress patterns, Mammy…I’m going to have a new dress,” we might bristle at her sense of entitlement, but in these times of fast fashion landfills, we can’t fault her creative repurposing, also known as upcycling.
3. Bret Easton Ellis
This passage from Bret Easton Ellis’s bestseller, American Psycho, which revolves around a discussion of the band U2 between the narrator, your average spiffily dressed serial killer, and a date invites us to ponder the passionate relationship of the 1980’s yuppie with Italian fashion:
"The Edge is wearing Armani," she shouts, pointing at the bassist. "That's not Armani," I shout back. "It's Emporio." "No," she shouts. "Armani." "The grays are too muted and so are the taupes and navies. Definite winged lapels, subtle plaids, polka dots and stripes are Armani. Not Emporio." I shout, extremely irritated that she doesn't know this, can't differentiate, both my hands covering both ears. "There's a difference."
Well, she’s clearly for the chop. Imagine not comprehending the gap between Armani’s diffusion line and his prima linea.
Image: Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Trailer screenshot
2. Truman Capote
Truman Capote’s 1958 novella Breakfast at Tiffany’s launched the beloved Holly Golightly on the fashion world. Although the industry might believe she was the product of the atelier of Hubert de Givenchy, the designer tasked with outfitting actress Audrey Hepburn for the movie version, his work was already more or less done as we can see by Capote’s lines:
“It was a warm evening, nearly summer, and she wore a slim cool black dress, black sandals, a pearl choker. For all her chic thinness, she had an almost breakfast-cereal air of health, a soap and lemon cleanness, a rough pink darkening in the cheeks.” Golightly’s urbane, nocturnal allure has been a go-to reference for designers ever since and cemented our attachment to “the little back dress.”
Image: Miss Havisham: Wikimedia By Harry Furniss from the library edition of Great Expectations, created 31 December 1909.
1. Charles Dickens
The ultimate “marriage” of fashion and fiction brings us back to where we started: Fashion = Decay = Death. I refer to the grand dame of Victorian classics, the ne plus ultra of spooky spinsterhood; bitter, skeletal, and locked away in her room next to her rotting wedding cake, Charles Dickens’s Miss Havisham from Great Expectations. The passages describing her going up in flames represent possibly the most visually exciting imagery to penetrate many an impressionable young girl’s mind, certainly more powerful than any modern example of Hollywood special effects, but it’s the words used to describe Pip’s first encounter with her which have inspired designers for decades. It’s easy to see why:
“She was dressed in rich materials — satins, and lace, and silks — all of white. Her shoes were white. And she had a long white veil dependent from her hair, and she had bridal flowers in her hair, but her hair was white. Some bright jewels sparkled on her neck and on her hands, and some other jewels lay sparkling on the table. Dresses, less splendid than the dress she wore, and half-packed trunks were scattered about. She had not quite finished dressing, for she had but one shoe on — the other was on the table near her hand — her veil was half arranged, her watch and chain were not put on, and some lace for her bosom lay with those trinkets and with her handkerchief, and gloves, and some flowers, and a prayer-book, all confusedly heaped about the looking-glass.
It was not in the first moments that I saw all these things, though I saw more of them in the first moments than might be supposed. But, I saw that everything within my view which ought to be white, had been white long ago, and had lost its luster, and was faded and yellow. I saw that the bride within the bridal dress had withered like the dress, and like the flowers, and had no brightness left but the brightness of her sunken eyes. I saw that the dress had been put upon the rounded figure of a young woman, and that the figure upon which it now hung loose, had shrunk to skin and bone.
Header image from Wikimedia of Oscar Wilde: Unknown photographer, Held at British Library, 1875-1905 and Alexander McQueen Menswear Fall 2017
By contributing guest editor Jackie Mallon, who is on the teaching faculty of several NYC fashion programmes and is the author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry.
- Vivian Hendriksz |
Fans of the late Spanish couturier Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) and his astonishing designs have reason to rejoice, as a new retrospective entitled 'Balenciaga, l’oeuvre au noir' (Balenciaga is the New Black) opens its doors to the public today in Paris, France. Located in the Musée Bourdelle, the new exhibition focuses on the black garments created by Balenciaga throughout his career in Paris, from 1937 to 1968. Hundreds of designs from the 100 year old fashion house Balenciaga archives will be displayed, ranging from draped crepe dresses to perfectly tailored suits. FashionUnited shares a few images from the exhibition below.
Balenciaga: L'Oeuvre au Noir is open from March 8 to July 16, 2017 at the Musée Bourdelle, Paris. However it is not the only Balenciaga exhibition to open this year, as the Victoria & Albert in London is set to open another exhibit on Balenciaga later this year.
Photos: Balenciaga, l'oeuvre au noir. ©Pierre Antoine
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent has announced that two museums dedicated to the late French designer will open in Paris and Morocco in autumn this year.
The foundation, which is dedicated to the conversation of the designer’s 40 years of creativity, has a collection that comprises of more than 5,000 haute couture garments and 15,000 accessories, as well as thousands of sketches, photographs and objects that will be utilised across the two museums.
The Parisian museum will be hosted in the foundations home, 5 avenue Marceau, where Yves Saint Laurent designed and created his work for almost 30 years, from 1974 to 2002. The dedicated space will allow the public to explore the designer’s heritage through what it describes as “constantly updated displays” of the foundation's collection.
Stage designer Nathalie Crinière and interior designer Jacques Grange, who both collaborated with the foundation on past projects, will rethink the exhibition space, an area that will be doubled in size and refurbished in the style of the designer’s original couture house.
“By walking through the former haute couture salons and Yves Saint Laurent’s studio, visitors will experience the essence of the creation process within the haute couture house,” explains the foundation.
Yves Saint Laurent museums to open in Paris and Morocco this October
The larger of the two museums will be in Marrakesh, located on Rue Yves Saint Laurent near Jardin Majorelle, a garden the designer and Pierre Bergé saved from development in 1980 and that has now become, with its museum dedicated to Berber culture a major cultural site in Marrakech with almost 700,000 visitors every year.
The new space spans over 43,000 square foot and will house a permanent display of Yves Saint Laurent’s work staged by Christophe Martin, a space for temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a research library and a café and restaurant.
It is hoped that the two museums will “not only intend to attract fashion and art lovers, but also aim to appeal to a large audience interested in discovering Yves Saint Laurent’s work, the oeuvre of a major artist of the twentieth century,” the foundation added.
Pierre Bergé, president of Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, said: “When Yves Saint Laurent discovered Marrakech in 1966, he was so moved by the place that he decided to buy a house and regularly go back there. It feels perfectly natural, fifty years later, to build a museum dedicated to his oeuvre, which was so inspired by this country. As for Paris, who needs to specify that it is where Yves Saint Laurent created all his work and built his career?”
Both museums are set to open in October.
Image: via Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent Facebook
- Vivian Hendriksz |
London - Fashion is said to be an experience one must feel, breath and live. It envelops us in our daily lives, whether we realise it or not - but there are certain aspects of fashion - it's roots, heritage and history - which can only be experienced in certain places, namely fashion exhibitions. Carefully curated and put together by a dedicated team, fashion retrospectives and displays offer viewers a unique opportunity to examine, investigate and study fashion - an experience no true fashion lover should miss.
In this interactive storymap, FashionUnited has rounded up ten must-see fashion exhibitions of 2017 and marked them out for you to keep in mind during your next journey.
Scroll down to navigate through the interactive map. Hit the button 'Start Exploring' and use the arrows to explore the map. Tip: for the full experience, click here to open the StoryMap in fullscreen in a new tab.
Interested in reading more on the fashion exhibitions? Then click here
- Vivian Hendriksz |
London - It’s the start of a new year, signalling new chances, inspirations and designs to be made in fashion. However, there is nothing like being able to see fashion in real life, to be able to experience the creative process which goes into design up close and in person. Fashion exhibitions are a great way to explore the roots of some of the leading fashion houses, fashion trends and movements which have come to shape and define the industry’s history, which is why FashionUnited has rounded up the top ten must-see fashion exhibitions opening in 2017, as well as ones to catch before they close this year.
Hubert De Givenchy - To Audrey with Love
Where: The Gemeentemuseum, The Hague, The Netherlands
French couturier Hubert de Givenchy, founder of fashion house Givenchy, is said to be one of the leading designers of the 20th century. Together with the likes of Christian Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga, he has left his mark in the history of haute couture. This grand retrospective of his work, entitled Hubert de Givenchy – To Audrey with Love was created together with the designer himself and offers visitors a unique glimpse into his career, from the opening of his fashion house in 1952 up until his retirement in 1995, focusing on some of de Givenchy’s personal favourite designs. What’s more, the exhibition also focuses on his friendship with iconic actress Audrey Hepburn, featuring designs wore by Hepburn as well as sketches, photographs and movie stills.
When: November 26, 2016 to March 26, 2017
Photo: To Audrey with Love exhibition, Don-Alvin Adegeest, FashionUnited
Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear
Where: The Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK
If you have ever wondered about the history of lingerie, or the evolution of the bra, then this is the exhibition for you. The Victoria & Albert Museum is currently hosting the largest exhibition of underwear design to ever go on display, showcasing over 200 pieces. Entitled Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear, the exhibition highlights the changes in design, themes and innovation in undergarments from the 18th century to the present day. It includes custom-made, rare pieces such as the ‘stays’ worn by a working woman in England in the 18th century to lingerie from the linkes of Stella McCartney, Rigby & Peller and Paul Smith. In addition, the exhibition aims to explore the relationship between fashion and lingerie, looking at our notion of the ideal body, sex and morality.
When: April 16, 2016 through March 12, 2017
Photo: Courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum
Peter Lindbergh - A Different Vision of Fashion Photography
Where: Kunsthal, Rotterdam, The Netherlands
Fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh is perhaps one of industry’s most celebrated artists. He has been credited with launching the careers of 1990s supermodels Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz and Christy Turlington and his work continues to be renowned throughout the industry. Unlike other fashion photographers, who used fashion, glamour and sex to create their ultimate fantasies, Lindbergh main goal has always been to capture the pure and raw essence of his subjects with the actual garments acting as an afterthought. This, combined with his passion for storytelling, landscapes and dance is the focus of his debut international travelling exhibition A Different Vision on Fashion Photography a retrospective curated by Thierry Maxime-Loriot, which features over 220 photographs including never before seen photos, sketches, personal notes and other artifacts from Lindbergh’s personal archives.
When: September 10, 2016 through to February 12, 2017
Photo: Press Preview at the Kunsthal, © Simon Trel Photography
Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion
Where: The Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK
The V&A is set to host another major fashion exhibition this year, which celebrates the work of couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga. Entitled Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion the retrospective marks the UK’s first exhibition on the couturier’s work and coincides with the 100th anniversary of Balenciaga’s first store opening in San Sebastián, Spain and the 80th anniversary of the opening of his famed Paris salon. The exhibition is will closely examine the craftsmanship and skill which made the designer’s creation so unique, while exploring how his designs shaped future creations. It will feature over 100 garments and 20 hats made by the couturier as well as never before seen sketches, film, photographs and fabric samples.
When: May 27, 2017, to February 18, 2018
Photo: Courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum
Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons - Costume Institute
Where: The MET, Iris and B.Gerald Canton Exhibition Hall, New York, USA
The Costume Institute’s spring 2017 exhibition is set to focus on the work of Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons. The exhibition will explore Kawakubo’s fascination with interstitiality - the space in between boundaries - and is set to feature 120 womenswear designs for Comme des Garçons. The garments date all the way to Kawakubo’s first runway show in Paris in 1981 to her most recent collection and will be organised thematically instead of chronologically. In order to enhance the state of “in-betweenness” the mannequins used in the exhibition will be shown at eye level, with no physical barriers, in order to break down the usual perceived distance between visitor and object.
When: May 4, 2017 to September 4, 2017
Photo: Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), “Body Meets Dress - Dress Meets Body,” spring/summer 1997. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, © Paolo Roversi
Marilyn - I Wanna Be Loved By You
Where: Hôtel de Caumont, Centre D’Art, Aix-En-Provence, France
Marilyn Monroe is perhaps one of the most photographed actresses in the history of cinema. She has been photographed by some of the most celebrated photographers of her time: André de Dienes, Milton Greene, Philippe Halsmann, Eve Arnold, Cecil Beaton, Sam Shaw, Ed Feingersh, George Barris, and Bert Stern, all contributed to making her an internationally known icon. The exhibition, named Marilyn, explores the relationship the actress had with photography and the role it played in creating her icon image. Featuring more than sixty photographs, the exhibition follows her career from a pin-up model to an actress to the legendary star and how her exceptional photogenic nature contributed to her rise to fame.
When: October 22, 2016 to May 1, 2017
Photo: by Milton H. Greene © 2016 Joshua Greene - www.archiveimages.com
The World of Anna Sui
Where: Fashion and Textile Museum, London, UK
Anna Sui is one of the most iconic fashion designers in the United States. Her signature rock and roll, romantic style is known for being able to reinvent pop culture time after time, remaining relevant with each new generation. The exhibition The World of Anna Sui tracks her rise to fame, starting with her first catwalk show in 1991 to the present day and explores how her designs have shaped the course of fashion history. Marking the first time that an American designer has been the focus of a retrospective exhibition in the UK, the exhibit features over 100 looks from Anna Sui’s archive, showcasing a roll call of archetypes from the Surfers and School Girls to the Hippies, Mods and Punks.
When: May 26, 2017 to October 1, 2017
Photo: Anna Sui, 2011 © Anna Sui; The World of Anna Sui, book cover 2017
The House of Dior: 70 years of Haute Couture
Where: The National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, Australia
In honour of the seventieth anniversary of Dior, the French fashion house has teamed up with the National Gallery of Victoria to host a unique retrospective exhibition. Entitled The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture , the exhibition features over 140 garments designed by Christian Dior Couture between 1947 and 2017, making it the largest retrospective from the Dior in Australia. The exhibit explores the history of Dior by examining key pieces from the seven designers who have each played a pivotal role in shaping the fashion house’s identity: Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri. The exhibition also focuses on Christian Dior's early influences, design codes, offers insights into its atelier workrooms as well as the role of accessories.
When: August 27, 2017 to November 7, 2017
Photo: Dior SS17, Catwalkpictures.com
Diana: Her Fashion Story
Where: Kensington Palace, London, UK
Although is has nearly been 20 years since her death, the style of Princess Diana continues to live on and is set to be honoured in a special exhibition at Kensington Palace. Entitled Diana: Her Fashion Story, the exhibit follows the evolution of the late Princess Diana’s style, starting with the demure, romantic outfits of her first public appearances up to the elegant, glamour and sophisticated air she exuded later in life. The exhibition is set to showcase a number of her favourite outfits, including evening gowns worn on engagements in the 1980s, to the Catherine Walker suits that made up Princess Diana’s ‘working wardrobe’ in the 1990s. It is also set to examine her relationship with her favourite designers at the time.
When: Opens February 24, 2017
Yves Saint Laurent Museum
Where: Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Marrakech, Morocco and Paris, France
Not one, but two museums dedicated to the work of the the late Yves Saint Laurents are set to open their doors this year. Located in Paris and Marrakech, the museums are set to offer visitors a closer glimpse into the life and career of the beloved couturier. The latter of the two museums holds special significance as the city itself is said to have a profound effect on the couturier’s lifework. Together the Fondation Pierre Bergé--Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Jardin Majorelle are set to open the Musee Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech this fall, which will house an selection of the designer’s work. The museum building was designed by French architecture firm Studio KO and is located adjacent to the Jardin Majorelle, which the late designer saved from destruction once up a time together with his onetime partner Pierre Berge in the 1980s.
When: Fall 2017
Photo: Courtesy of Studio KO, Musee Yves Saint Laurent, Marrakech
Homepage Photo: Peter Lindbergh Press Preview at the Kunsthal, © Simon Trel Photography, FashionUnited
- Vivian Hendriksz |
London - A coffee-table book is a key side-selling product in the fashion industry, and no fashion lover’s living is complete without a tome or two. With the holidays waiting at our doorstep, FashionUnited has made a selection of this year’s latest and greatest fashion coffee-table books. After all, a fashion book makes a lovely gift for those keen to expand their fashion knowledge, or those looking to extend their current collection or for those simply looking to marvel at the beautiful images.
A key must have for those who love fashion or baking, or both. The coffee-table book ‘Prêt-à-portea’ is chockfull of “fashionable goodies” inspired by catwalk looks of the likes of Jimmy Choo, Moschino and Zac Posen. The book also features Burberry Trench Coat cookies and Anya Hindmarch handbags made from blueberry cake. Mourad Kahiat, the head pastry chef at the Berkeley hand made the twenty recipes included in the book. The London-based hotel is known for its signature fashion inspired sweets and every season offers new cookies and cupcakes inspired by the latest catwalk looks. This delightfully sweet book is currently retailing for 12.05 pounds at Amazon.co.uk.
Photo: The Berkley, Facebook
Alexander McQueen Unseen
The number of fashion coffee-table books published on the late designer Alexander McQueen is close to rivalling those devoted to the great luxury kings and queens - Dior, Prada and Chanel - to name a few. However, unlike previously coffee-table books published on Alexander McQueen, ‘Unseen’ features unique behind-the-scenes images and never-before-published photographs taken by Robert Fairer. The pictures are accompanied by commentary by Claire Wilcox, curator at the Victoria & Albert Museum and the mastermind behind the V&A’s exhibition ‘Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty.’ Together the two revisit the designers most celebrated and iconic collections and creations and shine a light on all the “grit and spirit” which made McQueen’s work truly unique. Hardcover version currently available for 31.20 pounds via Amazon.
Cover: Thames & Hudson, Twitter
The Fashion Set: The Art of the Fashion Show
A definite must-read for all fashion, theatre and design lovers, ‘The Fashion Set: The Art of the Fashion Show’ focuses on the art of hosting a catwalk show and the importance behind presentation. The coffee-table book, written by Federico Poletti and Georgia Cantarini, also highlights the transformation fashion shows have undergone over the past decades, how they have become a work of art in their own right - at least those hosted by fashion houses able to afford it. Ranging from innovators like Dries van Noten, who marched models down a banquet table to Karl Lagerfeld, who paraded his Fendi collection next to the Great Wall of China, fashion shows themselves seem to becoming the centre of attention at times, at times even eclipsing the clothes they are designed to compliment. ‘The Fashion Set’ retails for 26 pounds at WHSmith.
Gucci - Blind for Love
Gucci released a limited edition coffee-table book entitled ‘Blind for Love.’ The title, much as the contents of the book, act as a visual reference of the Italian fashion house’s Cruise 2017 collection presentation, which took place at the Westminster Abbey. Led by creative director Alessandro Michele, the book features photographs of the show and behind the scene pictures take by British artist and photographer Nick Waplington. The images are mixed with lyrics from ’Scarborough Fair’; an English ballad that was played during the fashion show. Only 2,000 copies of the book were created, retailing for 95 US dollars. Fun fact: the cover of the book-box set features Queen Elizabeth I, who was coronated at Westminster Abbey on January 15, 1559.
Photo: screenshot website Assouline
Victoria Beckham: Style Power
The coffee-table book ‘Victoria Beckham: Style Power’ visually tells the story of how Victoria Beckham outgrew her previous image linked to the Spice Girls and became a style icon and respected fashion designer. The book, the first dedicated to the designer’s impact on the fashion industry, documents the evolution of Beckham’s design aesthetic, starting with her debut capsule collection in 2009 up to her catwalk shows in 2016. Written by David Foy, ‘Style Power’ is the first retrospective of Victoria Beckham’s work and currently retails for 14.95 pounds.
Photo: screenshot Bol.com
Louis Vuitton Fashion Eye
French fashion house Louis Vuitton has released five new books in one this year: ‘Fashion Eye Miami, Paris, Shanghai, California and India.’ The luxury brand commissioned both emerging talents as well as established photographers and fashion photographers, such as Jeanloup Sieff, Kourtney Roy and Guy Bourdin, to capture their city, country or region in fashion pictures. The results are catalogued in the coffee-table books, which are available separately or together in a limited edition box set.
The much awaited visual autobiography of Donatella Versace is a must have for all Versace fans. Written by the icon herself, together with Maria Luisa Frisa and Stefano Tonchi , the book follows the rise of the Italian fashion label from a family run company into one of the world’s leading fashion houses from Donatella’s point of view. ‘Versace’ features both catwalk photographs as well as backstage images from the fashion houses archive, taken by renowned photographers such as Richard Avedon, Irving Penn and Steven Meisel. The book also features a number of images of the original “supers” who modelled for Versace over the years, such as Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista. ‘Versace’, published by Rizzoli, retails for 95 US dollars.
70 Years of Dior By Christian Dior
In honour of fashion house Christian Dior’s seventieth anniversary, the French company has published the first volume of a seven volume series dedicated to its history. Each volume will be dedicated to the work of each designer to led Christian Dior, starting with the man himself, who founded his eponymous label in 1946. Following editions will celebrate the works of designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri. The first volume, entitled 'Dior by Christian Dior 1947-1957' is currently available at publishers Assouline in French, English and Chinese for 195 US dollars. The other six volumes will be released between 2017 and 2018.
Photo: screenshot website Assouline
The Coveteur: Private Spaces, Personal Style
This one of a kind coffee-book offers readers the chance to marvel at the wardrobes and fashion collection of 50 of the leading ladies and gentlemen of today - think Karlie Kloss, Jessica Alba and Tommy Hilfiger. Published by TheCoveteur.com, the book celebrates the website’s 15th anniversary by sharing a glimpse into the closets of fashion designers, actors, models and musicians. The photographs, taken by Jake Rosenberg, capture their favourite pieces, accessories and collectables and offer viewers an intimate look into their lives. ‘The Coveteur: Private Spaces, Personal Style’ hardcover retails for 17.95 pounds on Amazon .
Vetements Summercamp 2
The debut book from hit-label Vetement was sold out within a day, so the brand did not wait long in releasing its second book. Entitled ‘Summercamp 2’, the 480 paged book pays homage to Vetements Spring/Summer 2017 collection, as well as their collaborations with the likes of Juicy Couture, Brioni, Champion and Manolo Blahnik. Images in this visually telling coffee-book where taken by photographer Pierre-Ange Carlotti, with the book itself retailing for 50 euro online.